Obvious maybe, but fishing rods are breakable! Failure during normal use though is very unusual. Fly rods are designed to flex and bend gradually throughout, the bend being more pronounced towards the tip.
A common cause of breakage is pulling line out of the tip top sharply back towards the handle. It causes undue stress at the tip of the rod and may result in a break near the tip top. This also applies when playing a fish. Make sure you use a net or keep the angles correct to avoid breakage. Do not place your hand on the rod blank above the handle while fighting or landing a fish. This will put excessive pressure on the blank where your hand is placed instead of allowing the rod to distribute the pressure evenly over its entire length. Avoid placing or transporting your rod against metal or abrasive objects. Small nicks and scratches damage the graphite and can lead to rod breakage. Always transport and store your rod in a rod tube.
| INCORRECT | CORRECT |
|---|
Sometimes rods are broken when dismantling. In all cases, keep sections aligned when pulling apart. Sections should come apart with minimum force, just twist and pull apart. Use a piece of rubber to more securely grip each section if required. CAUTION: Never use the guides as leverage to assemble or disassemble your rod.
In stubborn cases use two people. Each holds one section in one hand and the other section in the other hand. Both people twist and pull at the same time.
Taping the joints of your Spey Rod
To avoid having sections twist (when Spey Casting) and prevent breakage from loosened joints you should always tape the joints, black electricians tape is recommended.
To use the tape, assemble your salmon rod ensuring a snug fit between male and female ferrules and alignment of rings and reel seat.
Unroll 2 to 3 inches of tape from the roll and while holding the rod in one hand and the tape roll in the other, attach the tape end to the rod about an inch above the center of each joint section.
Pull gently on the tape to stretch, and then slowly spin the rod in one direction. Guide the tape toward the butt at a slight downwards angle ensuring that the edge of each wrap overlaps the preceding wrap by about a third.
Once you have cleared the joint center by about an inch or so, pinch the tape off from the roll and flatten end down, or for a more secure joint, continue back over the wraps and finish where you started.
When removing tape, remove any residue from the rod by wiping lightly first with Goo Gone, then dry off with a clean cloth.
Basic obvious care of your rod will ensure it lasts a lifetime. Dry rods and wipe clean after use. Clean cork handles with warm soapy water. Do not use the handle as the hook keeper to hold flies! Be sure to remove all shipping plastic from the cork handle. Keep the reel seat clean and do not over tighten. Keep grit off your fly line which causes damage to the rod guides and snake rings. Use a suitable line that is recommended for the rod weight, but do not overload the rod. Remove shipping shrink wrap from cork handle or the cork will rot if not allowed to dry.
Carrying Your Rod
When walking with your rod it is generally best to carry it with the tip of the rod behind you. This will avoid stabbing the tip into the ground or other objects in front of you and risking breakage. You will also notice that we do not put a Hook Keeper on some of our rods so that when you are carrying the rod using the above method the hook is not sticking into your hand. The best method of keeping your fly on your rod is to attach the fly to the frame of the first stripper guide (not the ceramic of the stripper guide as the fly may damage the ring) and then bring your leader around the circumference of the reel, then reel up the slack in the line. With this method you are also keeping your leader straight and the leader/line connection knot out of the tip top.
BE AWARE!
CARBON RODS CONDUCT ELECTRICITY!
IN A LIGHTENING STORM, STOP FISHING; LAY YOUR ROD ON THE GROUND AND MOVE AWAY.
ALSO BEWARE OF OVERHEAD POWER LINES.
In closing, fly rods are actually remarkably strong and seldom break. If you do have a problem though, no worries! Your Temple Fork Outfitters™ rod comes with a warranty. See your TFO warranty for full details: fly rods, spinning & casting rods.
Spool & Frame Finish
The Military Grade, Type III Hard Anodizing is extremely corrosion resistant and as a result, the reel requires only a rinse in fresh water after exposure to saltwater to protect it. It can be immersed in warm soapy water to dissolve any salt buildup, which may be in the reel, but this process is unnecessary as the Anodizing process eliminates the need. Anti-corrosive products such as spray polishes, and oils etc. are not required, but may preserve the long-term aesthetics of the reel.
Lubrication
High quality grease, such as Cal’s 2 Speed, should be applied to:
1. Both pawls where they contact the teeth of the drag plate
2. The threads on the draw bar
3. The spindle where it contacts the bearings within the spool
Drag Surface
Cork drags perform best and last longest if they are kept lubricated; we prefer a thin film of Cal’s 2 Speed Universal Reel & Star Drag Grease. Check the cork surface regularly and lubricate before it dries out. A cork which has dried out loses elasticity and becomes less capable of performing fine adjustments.
Removing the Spool
Tools Required: A nickel or quarter.
Remove the drag knob screw from the center of the drag knob by turning it clockwise (reverse threaded). Turn the drag knob off in the standard counter clockwise direction. Turn the reel over and pull the draw bar out, then remove the spool from the frame.
Reversing the Retrieve
Follow procedure above for removing the spool. The geared drag plate pulls out with no tools necessary. To reassemble, place the drag plate over the spindle and on top of the pawls. For right-hand retrieve, turn the drag plate clockwise while pushing it down towards the frame until both pawls click into place against the teeth of the drag plate. The procedure for left-hand retrieve is identical, except that you must turn the drag plate counter clockwise as you push it down onto the pawls. Replace the spool on the spindle and reverse the disassembly procedure above, keeping in mind that the drag knob screw tightens counter clockwise.
TFO LARGE ARBOR FLY REEL
Spool & Frame Finish
Anodized aluminum reels are extremely corrosion resistant but should be rinsed with fresh water after exposure to saltwater to help protect them. Warm water and a toothbrush can be used to dissolve any salt buildup, which may be in the reel. Anti-corrosive products such as spray polishes, and oils etc. are not required, but may preserve the long-term aesthetics of the reel.
Lubrication
High quality grease, such as Cal’s 2 Speed, should be periodically applied to:
1. The threads on the draw bar
2. All bearings
3. The spindle where it contacts the bearings within the spool
Drag Surface
Carbon Fiber drags do not require any lubricant, but a very thin coat of Cal’s 2 Speed is beneficial.
Removing the Spool
Tools Required: None
Loosen the drag completely then turn the spool cap assembly (center of the spool) counter clockwise until the spool is free.
Reversing the Retrieve
Follow procedure above for removing the spool. Slide the carbon fiber drag assembly off of the spindle (310 & 340 models require the removal of an e-clip), slide the one-way roller bearing out of the drag assembly and rotate 180 degrees (blue on top for right hand retrieve). Re-assemble.
